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郑州-滇东南自驾路线(上)

  • 2026-03-31 09:58:07
郑州-滇东南自驾路线(上)
春节假期，9 天半时间，开了将近 6000 公里，从郑州出发去了滇东南。
大概行程是郑州-昆明-哀牢山-建水古城-元阳梯田-河口-蒙自-罗平油菜花-百色-柳州-郑州。
第一天基本上都在赶路，原计划开 1000 公里到吉首过夜，但在常德遇上大堵车，临时转到安化休息——没错，就是那个产黑茶的安化，非常漂亮的一个小县城。
第二天睡到自然醒，安化-昆明，一路经过铜仁、贵阳、六盘水到曲靖，然后晚上 10 点到昆明。这一路 1100 公里左右，云贵高原的景色，大部分时间在山岭中穿梭，越往云贵交界处，路越险峻，经过了北盘江大桥很壮观，一闪而过，要赶路就没停车看。
第三天也就是除夕，上午去翠湖公园看郁金香，没看到海鸥，遇到了不少小松鼠，顺便去旁边的讲武堂旧址瞻仰一番。
昆明最值得去就是菜市场，这可能是全中国最刺激最好玩最新奇的菜市场，见识到了许许多多从未见过的瓜果蔬菜和刺激吃法儿，逛一天都不会厌倦。
下午因为提前订了哀牢山的民宿，所以中午 1 点左右就出发，打算在哀牢山看日落。
但我还是低估了云南的路况，“车技不过关，莫走云贵川”，在哀牢山我开始深有体会。
从昆明到哀牢山顶民宿，大概 200 多公里，导航需要 4 个小时。我从昆明开到山脚下的嘎洒镇大概用了不到 2 小时，剩下 50 多公里路，我走了 2 个小时。
这一段路从海拔 500 多一路爬升到 2400 米左右，全程基本上都是 Z 字型，导航经常提示：“道路尽头，向左/右后方转弯上坡”，绝大多数路段都是一边悬崖一边儿峭壁，车窗看出去云雾缭绕，非常刺激。
山顶的民宿在金山垭口，导航金山原始森林就能到，设计非常不错，老板人也 Nice。正好赶上除夕，晚上民宿请所有的客人一起吃年夜饭，主菜是山上自由放牧的黑皮山羊和塘里的鲤鱼，吃嗨了。
第四天一大早起来看日出云海，当天日出时间是 7:46 分，我大概 7 点带着珠姐从酒店出发，开了 20 公里，绕过半座山去东面看日出，幸亏带了无人机，赶上了翻滚的云海和红日，壮观到失语。
看完云海，参加了哀牢山的徒步——每年我们一家三口都会在春节找个地方徒步等高，去年在马来西亚，今年在哀牢山——全程 8km 左右，难度不算很大，但毕竟纯野线，也不算简单。
哀牢山徒步分季节，我们在旱季，虽然能看到青苔满树的地貌，但没有了云雾缭绕的氛围感，还不能凸显哀牢山的刺激。另外，山顶的杜鹃没有到花期，只开了很少几颗，当地人说如果 3 月份的话，满山遍野都是高山杜鹃，非常好看。
下午大概 3 点多徒步结束，开始往建水古城出发——因为是大年初一，正赶上当地彝族人的活动，唱跳喝酒，非常热闹，也非常堵车，没办法我们只能绕行元阳，走了一段昆磨高速去建水，多走了大概 100km。
多说一句，昆磨高速绝对是中国高速里的难度 S 级高速，动辄连续下坡 30km，因为沿着河谷修建，大量的 S 弯和 U 型弯，短短 20 多 km，海拔可以下降 1000 米，大货车非常多，隔不了几公里就是一个避险车道，路上事故很多。
晚上大概 7 点多到建水，这里有座古城很出名，另外就是紫陶非常不错。
建水这座小城市不大，但游客不少，人气很旺，城市界面也挺干净，沿路开满了各种各样的花。
古城里有做朱家花园，是当地富绅所建，已经有几百年历时，进去转了俩小时，跟苏州园林差距很大，但能在边陲之地建如此规模的中式园林，难度还是不小的。
行吧，今天先写上半截，明天续后半程。
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河南队大球星要来郑州中原万达了!

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000641s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=i460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000768s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.001191s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000280s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000836s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001826s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000637s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 485555 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.003127s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1776387872 WHERE `id` = 485555 [ RunTime:0.004356s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.006012s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 485555 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.010724s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 485555 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.003404s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 485555 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.015210s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 485555 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.002846s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 485555 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000681s ]
0.136685s