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郑州的烩面

  • 2026-04-07 21:41:43
郑州的烩面
作为一个外地人，我觉得最能代表郑州的地域性食物是烩面。
在郑州能吃到很多种类的面条，但是好像每种面条的使命是不一样的。烩面是主食，是正餐的主食；其它面条，比如什么芝麻页面，糊涂面这些，我只有酒后充饥时才能见到，那么他们是不够庄重的主食吗？
以上只是我个人的感受，跟我自己经历有关。
我第一次去郑州是2011年的5月8日。我找到了当时的照片。
这是15年前拍的郑州站，那时候没有高铁，我从武汉站了6个小时到的郑州。去看我两个同学。出了站我买了一瓶康师傅冰红茶，喝了两口感觉不对，仔细一看是康帅傅。有一阵子流行过类似的段子，我真实的就遇到过一次，是在郑州。这个经历没有对郑州的贬损的意思，我是很喜欢郑州的，也有很多的河南朋友，我很认可中州文化。
当天晚上我第一次吃到了烩面。在吃之前，我一直以为烩面是炒面，因为我理解“烩”这个字就是炒的意思。上来之后惊讶，居然是碗汤面，而且碗巨大无比。那时候吃起来觉得真好吃，汤是羊肉汤，很醇厚，面条是我没有吃过的品种，滑溜溜的甜丝丝的味道。那一大碗我全部吃完了，汤都没有剩下。
我记得那家店名字里面有个“金”字，后来我跟我同学求证，他们都不记得请我吃烩面这个事情了。
后来到了2014年，因为工作原因，我长期要去河南出差，去郑州次数是最多的。就长期吃到了烩面，去的最多的是萧记，但是再去的时候，吃不出第一次的感觉了。
萧记的烩面还分大碗和小碗，你点了小碗之后服务员会推荐你选个大碗，告诉你大碗也只贵一块钱。刚开始觉得一块钱换购大碗很划算，就选择了大碗。但是每次面上来就只能吃一片面，喝几口汤。再去就再也不选择大碗了。这个营销让我觉得他们有点鸡贼。
机场出来就有一家萧记，很多次因为飞机的时间，就是在这里吃的饭。我在这家店第一次看到了豆皮是怎么制作的。原来豆皮就是豆浆表面凝固形成的，那个阿姨用两个很长的棍子把豆皮挑出来，然后食客淋上酱油就可以吃了，很鲜甜很好吃。
后来阶段性的要告别郑州的时候，我觉得我应该再去吃一次烩面。在时间很紧张的情况下，在东站内吃了一碗老郑州烩面。
吃出了很多感触，也理解了为什么我的郑州朋友们去外地待几天落地郑州第一件事就是找地方吃烩面。
在郑州待久了就变成了河南人。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000630s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=i460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000698s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000306s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000288s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000576s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000249s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000592s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 494650 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.004196s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1776716852 WHERE `id` = 494650 [ RunTime:0.014200s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000329s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 494650 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000851s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 494650 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.002060s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 494650 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.001550s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 494650 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001578s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 494650 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.007662s ]
0.103071s